FUNDAMENTAL SKILLS
The fundamental skill in mountain biking is BALANCE! Learning how to stay balanced in changing terrain, over and around obstacles, at high speeds, in the air and up technical climbs is the key to getting the bike to do what you want/need. You must learn to keep your bike light beneath you while staying balanced, and the best way to improve all of this is by practicing and mastering the fundamental skills.
Pedal Position:
Even weight on level pedals when coasting or making most technical moves. The weight is in your FEET, not your hands. “Heavy feet, light hands.”
Watch for rocks and obstacles and learn to react accordingly with your feet.
Flat pedal foot placement is more on arch of foot, not the ball.
Eye movement:
Scan trail between “Now and Next” with a strong focus on what’s coming up.
Constantly be planning your next move.
Spot obstacle, prepare, start maneuver then look ahead to prepare for what’s next.
When nervous about rocks beside you and steep exposure - look straight ahead and focus on the trail and only the trail. Keep your mind logical, not emotional.
Neutral position / Ready position:
Always standing while downhilling.
Even weight on pedals.
One finger on each brake.
Arms bent slightly with elbows slightly out, not straight back – Push-up position. Arms act as another form of suspension and they should work with the terrain.
Legs slightly bent – Legs should be bending and absorbing impact along with suspension.
Bent arms and legs keep you loose and ready to react.
Bike Body Separation:
Fore/Aft - Used to help with certain maneuvers - climbing, rock gardens, bunny hops, peeking over bars for roll downs and lunges, manuals.
Slide body forward ahead of stem.
Push bike in front of you.
Side to Side - This is used for cornering, maneuvering through obstacles and best of all playing on your bike!
Move bike side to side beneath you – moving only your elbows, quiet shoulders.
Do track stands and try to understand where you are best balanced. Make that bike stand still.
Braking:
Always leave a finger resting on each brake!
Both brakes gently and evenly - like a dimmer switch.
Make tiny adjustments to use your brakes strategically.
Brace against pedal with heels down and push the feet down and forward for pumping and sudden stops.
The heels down braces you against your pedals for downhilling (especially on steeps), keeps pressure against the pedals, keeps weight back, and helps prevent you from going over the bars.
Steering / Directional control:
Moving the front wheel (It’s the wheel most commonly involved with crashes!)
Slow speed steering around obstacles with tight corners using pedal ratcheting.
Steering for quick rock dodging.
Directional control around tight corners.
Leaning the bike away from body.
Look all the way through to the exit of the corner - Look with eyes and twist head, shoulders, belly and knees towards the exit.
Speed / Momentum:
Speed comes with skills, but once you have the skills, speed can be your friend.
Momentum is keeping the wheels rolling with enough power for the obstacle.
Four different ways to get momentum:
Pedaling.
Pushing bike forward.
Pedal punch/ratchet (when full pedal stroke is not an option / bobbling climbing up rocks or up and overs).
Lurching your body (sometimes on steep rock climbs, or step ups we have to lurch our bodies forward…this gets our weight off the rear wheel and allows the rear end to follow us up).
Gearing / Cadence:
Always try and find a comfortable pedal stroke.
Light shifting by pedaling lightly.
Uphill shifting – Surge, pause and shift, pedal.
Timing / Coordination:
Understanding how small errors in timing can mess you up.
The ability to move the bike around while staying centered.
Being able to react accordingly in different situations.
The timing changes for certain maneuvers.
If you’re approaching something at a high speed, you need to start sooner - about 3 feet away.
Slow speed is about a foot away.
Pressure Control:
Balance on the bike from the feet and using your core, not holding yourself up with arms.
Slight lean and pressure from arms creates better traction on the front end around corners and down steeps.
Slight lean back with heels down puts pressure and adds traction to the rear wheel.
Putting pressure equally on both feet and the handlebars provides maximum traction when you need it. Pumping the terrain with your feet and hands keeps you connected to the trail and making deliberate movements.
WHEEL LIFTS – UNWEIGHTING WHEELS
Basic front wheel lift – (Load and explode) Unweighting the front.
Compress suspension down
Get weight off front with a slight lean.
Basic Rear wheel lift – (More advanced) Unweighting the rear.
Load, explode, scoop.
Lean hips up above bars to get weight off rear.
Rear wheel lift and kick – (Advanced) For switchbacks, rock dodge, tricks.
Same as #2 then “kick” rear wheel to the side.
Front then Rear – Front then Rear.
Level lift – Both wheels at same time – Used in high speed situations .
Level lift and hop to side – Jump off skinnies, avoid obstacle, playing around.
Manual wheel lift – (The Flick) For technical climbs, jumping roots or obstacles in the trail, for forward momentum, to unweight front wheel without pushing down as hard.
Slight compression of suspension (wind up) then shove the bike out in front of you.
Use feet to push the bike forward.
Bunny Hops – (Advanced)
Manual wheel lift.
Lurch up and forward with the body.
Scoop the pedals to get the rear wheel to follow up into the air before the front wheel starts to dip down.
Pedal punch wheel lift – For technical climbs.
Pedal at 12:00, find engagement point.
Punch forward in easy gear.
Lean back, push chest towards the sky and pedal through.
Always have fingers on brake, brake rear if you go too high.
LUNGES AND DROPS
Roll down lunge – Peek and Push OR Prep and Push
For rollable drops or steep roll downs or up and overs.
Lower weight into ready position and “peek” at the landing
Set up for a big “push” - push down and forward; follow the trail.
Drops – Stamp-Send-Return method. OR shift forward before take off, then shift back to keep wheel up, return to center for landing.
SPEED IS YOUR FRIEND. The slower you go the more you have to do. The faster you go, the less you have to do.
Small preload suspension to make bike springy.
Push the bike out in front of you. (Lighter object needs to go first)
Pull your body back to center.
Both wheels should stay on an even plane and land together and match the steepness (or flatness) of landing.
CORNERING
Flat/Loose corners (LOW, LOOK, LEAN) – Bike body separation. Look through the turn to the exit. Scan the corner the way you envision your bike going through it. Exaggerate the look. TWIST the body towards the corner. Knees, belly, shoulders, head pointing to the exit. (Twist and “Look for your friend”)
Berms – Lean with the bike more as you put the tires flat against the berm for best traction. Find the exit upon entrance.
KEY THINGS TO REMEMBER
The bike is light move it around – you must put it where you want it to go. YOU’RE THE BOSS!! You are the pilot not the passenger!
The bike has no brain and no eyes, you must do everything for it and stay balanced to help it.
Peek and Push is your best friend when anything drops off or as a way to gain momentum.
Always try and react in a forward motion. We tend to back away when we’re nervous and that makes us stiff and unable to react accordingly. Move the bike FORWARD as best you can if you get into trouble! Panic braking is what messes us up! HESITATION EQUALS DEVASTATION!
Keep the wheels rolling in the direction you want them to go. The mantra: “What do I need to do to keep my wheels rolling forward!?”
Keep that front wheel in control and light over momentum blockers
Corner mantra: LOW LOOK LEAN - WIPE YOUR BUTT ON THE BERM - FART A SIDEWAYS RAINBOW - LOOK FOR YOUR FRIEND - TWIST WHOLE BODY IN THE DIRECTION YOU’RE HEADING
Bounce around, be playful, make the most out of every ride by practicing the skills that allow you to make tricky and calculated maneuvers. You’ve got this!! PRACTICE, PRACTICE PRACTICE THOSE SKILLS!!!
The fundamental skill in mountain biking is BALANCE! Learning how to stay balanced in changing terrain, over and around obstacles, at high speeds, in the air and up technical climbs is the key to getting the bike to do what you want/need. You must learn to keep your bike light beneath you while staying balanced, and the best way to improve all of this is by practicing and mastering the fundamental skills.
Pedal Position:
Even weight on level pedals when coasting or making most technical moves. The weight is in your FEET, not your hands. “Heavy feet, light hands.”
Watch for rocks and obstacles and learn to react accordingly with your feet.
Flat pedal foot placement is more on arch of foot, not the ball.
Eye movement:
Scan trail between “Now and Next” with a strong focus on what’s coming up.
Constantly be planning your next move.
Spot obstacle, prepare, start maneuver then look ahead to prepare for what’s next.
When nervous about rocks beside you and steep exposure - look straight ahead and focus on the trail and only the trail. Keep your mind logical, not emotional.
Neutral position / Ready position:
Always standing while downhilling.
Even weight on pedals.
One finger on each brake.
Arms bent slightly with elbows slightly out, not straight back – Push-up position. Arms act as another form of suspension and they should work with the terrain.
Legs slightly bent – Legs should be bending and absorbing impact along with suspension.
Bent arms and legs keep you loose and ready to react.
Bike Body Separation:
Fore/Aft - Used to help with certain maneuvers - climbing, rock gardens, bunny hops, peeking over bars for roll downs and lunges, manuals.
Slide body forward ahead of stem.
Push bike in front of you.
Side to Side - This is used for cornering, maneuvering through obstacles and best of all playing on your bike!
Move bike side to side beneath you – moving only your elbows, quiet shoulders.
Do track stands and try to understand where you are best balanced. Make that bike stand still.
Braking:
Always leave a finger resting on each brake!
Both brakes gently and evenly - like a dimmer switch.
Make tiny adjustments to use your brakes strategically.
Brace against pedal with heels down and push the feet down and forward for pumping and sudden stops.
The heels down braces you against your pedals for downhilling (especially on steeps), keeps pressure against the pedals, keeps weight back, and helps prevent you from going over the bars.
Steering / Directional control:
Moving the front wheel (It’s the wheel most commonly involved with crashes!)
Slow speed steering around obstacles with tight corners using pedal ratcheting.
Steering for quick rock dodging.
Directional control around tight corners.
Leaning the bike away from body.
Look all the way through to the exit of the corner - Look with eyes and twist head, shoulders, belly and knees towards the exit.
Speed / Momentum:
Speed comes with skills, but once you have the skills, speed can be your friend.
Momentum is keeping the wheels rolling with enough power for the obstacle.
Four different ways to get momentum:
Pedaling.
Pushing bike forward.
Pedal punch/ratchet (when full pedal stroke is not an option / bobbling climbing up rocks or up and overs).
Lurching your body (sometimes on steep rock climbs, or step ups we have to lurch our bodies forward…this gets our weight off the rear wheel and allows the rear end to follow us up).
Gearing / Cadence:
Always try and find a comfortable pedal stroke.
Light shifting by pedaling lightly.
Uphill shifting – Surge, pause and shift, pedal.
Timing / Coordination:
Understanding how small errors in timing can mess you up.
The ability to move the bike around while staying centered.
Being able to react accordingly in different situations.
The timing changes for certain maneuvers.
If you’re approaching something at a high speed, you need to start sooner - about 3 feet away.
Slow speed is about a foot away.
Pressure Control:
Balance on the bike from the feet and using your core, not holding yourself up with arms.
Slight lean and pressure from arms creates better traction on the front end around corners and down steeps.
Slight lean back with heels down puts pressure and adds traction to the rear wheel.
Putting pressure equally on both feet and the handlebars provides maximum traction when you need it. Pumping the terrain with your feet and hands keeps you connected to the trail and making deliberate movements.
WHEEL LIFTS – UNWEIGHTING WHEELS
Basic front wheel lift – (Load and explode) Unweighting the front.
Compress suspension down
Get weight off front with a slight lean.
Basic Rear wheel lift – (More advanced) Unweighting the rear.
Load, explode, scoop.
Lean hips up above bars to get weight off rear.
Rear wheel lift and kick – (Advanced) For switchbacks, rock dodge, tricks.
Same as #2 then “kick” rear wheel to the side.
Front then Rear – Front then Rear.
Level lift – Both wheels at same time – Used in high speed situations .
Level lift and hop to side – Jump off skinnies, avoid obstacle, playing around.
Manual wheel lift – (The Flick) For technical climbs, jumping roots or obstacles in the trail, for forward momentum, to unweight front wheel without pushing down as hard.
Slight compression of suspension (wind up) then shove the bike out in front of you.
Use feet to push the bike forward.
Bunny Hops – (Advanced)
Manual wheel lift.
Lurch up and forward with the body.
Scoop the pedals to get the rear wheel to follow up into the air before the front wheel starts to dip down.
Pedal punch wheel lift – For technical climbs.
Pedal at 12:00, find engagement point.
Punch forward in easy gear.
Lean back, push chest towards the sky and pedal through.
Always have fingers on brake, brake rear if you go too high.
LUNGES AND DROPS
Roll down lunge – Peek and Push OR Prep and Push
For rollable drops or steep roll downs or up and overs.
Lower weight into ready position and “peek” at the landing
Set up for a big “push” - push down and forward; follow the trail.
Drops – Stamp-Send-Return method. OR shift forward before take off, then shift back to keep wheel up, return to center for landing.
SPEED IS YOUR FRIEND. The slower you go the more you have to do. The faster you go, the less you have to do.
Small preload suspension to make bike springy.
Push the bike out in front of you. (Lighter object needs to go first)
Pull your body back to center.
Both wheels should stay on an even plane and land together and match the steepness (or flatness) of landing.
CORNERING
Flat/Loose corners (LOW, LOOK, LEAN) – Bike body separation. Look through the turn to the exit. Scan the corner the way you envision your bike going through it. Exaggerate the look. TWIST the body towards the corner. Knees, belly, shoulders, head pointing to the exit. (Twist and “Look for your friend”)
Berms – Lean with the bike more as you put the tires flat against the berm for best traction. Find the exit upon entrance.
KEY THINGS TO REMEMBER
The bike is light move it around – you must put it where you want it to go. YOU’RE THE BOSS!! You are the pilot not the passenger!
The bike has no brain and no eyes, you must do everything for it and stay balanced to help it.
Peek and Push is your best friend when anything drops off or as a way to gain momentum.
Always try and react in a forward motion. We tend to back away when we’re nervous and that makes us stiff and unable to react accordingly. Move the bike FORWARD as best you can if you get into trouble! Panic braking is what messes us up! HESITATION EQUALS DEVASTATION!
Keep the wheels rolling in the direction you want them to go. The mantra: “What do I need to do to keep my wheels rolling forward!?”
Keep that front wheel in control and light over momentum blockers
Corner mantra: LOW LOOK LEAN - WIPE YOUR BUTT ON THE BERM - FART A SIDEWAYS RAINBOW - LOOK FOR YOUR FRIEND - TWIST WHOLE BODY IN THE DIRECTION YOU’RE HEADING
Bounce around, be playful, make the most out of every ride by practicing the skills that allow you to make tricky and calculated maneuvers. You’ve got this!! PRACTICE, PRACTICE PRACTICE THOSE SKILLS!!!